Full text of DOI:10.1177/004051750207200213

Textile Research Journal
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Dimensional, Pilling, and Abrasion Properties of Weft Knits Made from Open-End and Ring Spun
Yarns
C. Candan and L. Önal
Textile Research Journal 2002 72: 164
DOI: 10.1177/004051750207200213
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164
Knits Made
Weft
Yarns
of
Abrasion
and
and
Properties
Dimensional,
Pilling,
from
Ring Spun
Open-End
L. ÖNAL
AND
C. CANDAN
Istanbul,
Istanbul,
Technical
Textile
Turkey
University of
Engineering,
of
Department
ABSTRACT
of
of
a
series
abrasion
and
on the
focuses
dimensional,
pilling,
This
properties
paper
and
cotton
from
fabrics made
fleece
two-thread
and
ring
open-end
lacoste,
jersey,
yams
plain
spun
show
results
The
blend
as from
as well
(50/50
dyed).
in
cotton/polyester,
yams
the
fiber
and
differences
structural
of these
determining
that both
large part
type play a
a
lower
have
blend
the knits from
that
It is
fabrics.
dimensions
yams
apparent
to fabrics
and
from 100% cotton
when
open-end spun
governs
dimensional
ring
compared
stability
the
that
fleece fabrics
two-thread
for the
inlay yammainly
suggest
Findings
yams.
test
three
an
of the
The
direction.
evaluated
abrasion
widthwise
in the
behavior
their dimensional
tendency
pilling
box
with the ICI
to abrasion are
(at
resistance
and their
samples
pilling
In
addition,
the
and
Martindale
tester,
test
different
respectively.
type
revolutions)
SEM examination
launder-
of fiber
and
the effect
to
is used
extensive
repeated
study
the
fuzz assemblies.
within
of fiber
lacoste
and
both
on
damage
degree
development
pilling
ings
and
well,
fabrics
unlike
show that
fabrics,
results
very
The
perform
jersey
plain
to
a
lower
have
knitted from
fabrics
that in
In the
pilling.
both
propensity
yams
spun
open-end
general
cotton
from 100%
the
structure,
fleece
(i.e.,
the two-thread
case of
fleece
samples
to FBOE
rates
have
and
(face yam
are 50/50
fleece
yam
face
compared
higher pilling
yams
yam)open-end
yam
face and
FBB
and
is 50/50
SEM
fleece
(both
is
PET/cotton)
reveals
cotton,
the
numberoftest
to
the same
that for
revolutions,
increase
fabrics. The
PET/cotton)
study
with an
tends
fuzz
the
within
to fibers
of
entanglements
damage
number
degree
small cracks
from
varies
of
the kind
and that
of
increased
damage
launderings,
that
however,
the fabric and
on
Note,
tests
to
and fractures
type.
yam
depending
slight flaking,
as severe
is not
and
of
a result
as
launderings
fabrics have
pilling
repeated
occurring
damage
any
to abrasion.
least resistance
the
The lacoste
the literature.
that
in
as
reported
the
on the dimen-
of lacoste and
is to
in this
main
Our
demands
of
investigate
With the
cotton,
paper
objective
greater
popularity
rising
variables
and fabric
effects of some
have become
as end-users
been
yam
for
have
of
required
quality
and abrasion
sional,
pilling,
therefore
and
and
properties
its
more aware
properties,
on the
negative
been re-
has
which little
fabrics
fleece
two-thread
(on
have been
studies
geometry
produced
reported
many
with those of
in the
literature),
plain
together
from
ported
knitted fabrics
of
dimensional
properties
knitted fabrics.
24,
22,
kinds of
7-12, 15-16,
different
4-5,
[ 1-2,
yams
the
fabric
ofknitted
shrinkage
cotton
27-28].
can be solved
problem
Although
100%
Experimental
three different
to some extend
by replacing
and
fiber blend the
with
a
severity
and
increases,
yarn,
cotton/synthetic
fabric
the
For
work,
types-double
in
ofpilling,
turn,
pilling
knitted
greatly
more serious
much
fleece-
ma-
longevity
and two-thread
(lacoste),
were knitted
plain jersey,
pique
for the
has become
a
problem
circular
28-cut Monarch
on
a
knitting
to an
In addition
the
about
Detailed information
are
unsightly appearance,
a
30&dquo; diameter.
industry.
chine with
apparel
and
attrition
initiate
fabric
on
a
surface
these fabric
used to
garment
ofthe
pills
presented
samples
produce
yams
of this
wear.
Because
cause
in Table I.
,
importance
premature
as well as
was
fabric
the mechanism of
formation,
each
from Tables
we see
As
II-IV,
course
type
pill
very subject,
factors
for
re-
la-
has been
at three different
it,
(e.g.,
many
lengths
by
investigated
[3, 6,
affecting
produced
coste,
were classified
and the
640/667/700
the
mid-1950s
23,
13-14, 17-21,
searchers since
25-26, 29].
8,
cm),
with the
samples
general
or
form: L
in accordance
F)
(s
following
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165
TABLE I.
of
the
Properties
yams.
TABLE II.
Dimensional
of
relaxed lacoste
and blend
properties
fully
(dyed
spun) sampks.
111.
TABLE
Dimensional
of
relaxed
and blend
properties
fully
plain jersey
(dyed
spun) samples.
TABLE IV.
Dimensional
of
relaxed
two-thread fleece
and blend
properties
fully
(dyed
spun)
samples.
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166
OE
to examina-
coated
and
stubs,
diameter SEM
OE/R/B stand
where
XXX
or
number),
open-end,
prior
are
gold
of the fabrics
B)
(three
digit
(R
in
The SEM
tion.
100% cotton
cotton
for yam type
50/50
presented
photos
(100%
PET/cotton blend
ring,
1-5.
Plain
lacoste,
jersey,
Figures
open-end).
F
in
and
are
fleece
and two-thread
s, L,
turn,
designated
for the different
is used
number
the
and
course
three-digit
lengths.
a
two-thread
are
Fsssoo means
For
example,
and
face
both the
fleece fabric in which
inlay yam
knitted at the
PET/cotton
50/50
yam,
open-end spun
two-thread
how-
In the case of the
of 800 cm.
course
length
from 100% cotton
fleece knits
spun yam,
open-end
Fxxx
is used.
ever,
F800)
(e.g.,
the
two-thread fleece
of the
In the case
fabrics,
constant.
inlay
for
or
was held
stitch
less)
(more
from the
ofthe
Except
length
fabrics knitted
blend
Table
the
I).
(see
was set
yams
aside and
some ofthe
goods
gray
yardage
was
underthe
and
the remainder
bleached,
The
scoured,
dyed
from blend
were then
in an
fabrics
controlled conditions.
made
same
All the fabric
rinsed.
were
samples
yams
only
to relaxation
treatments we
explained
subjected
earlier
and
that
difference
but with
a
[8],
washing
paper
first
of SOE815,
1.
FIGURE
SEM
washing cycle.
photo
re-
was
three times. After each
fabric
repeated
density,
tumbling
tumble-drying
laxation
areal
thickness,
pilling
process,
three different
revolutions:
7000, 9000,
(for
and
in
resistance were measured
and abrasion
11,000),
den-
areal
standards:
with the
accordance
following
resis-
abrasion
fabric thickness-ss
2544,
3801,
sity-tso
tance-ss
ss> >.
5690,
pilling-ss
a
measured
were
Wale and course
using mag-
for each dimension were
density
ten measurements
nifying glass;
fabrics. Mean
on the tubular
made at different
places
ofcourses/cm and wales/cm were then
values
calculated,
used to determine the
meanswas
of
the
these
and
product
density
ofthe
which is
considered
to
stitch
sample,
usually
also tested
was
to
Course
indicate
shrinkage.
length
the amount
after
ofyamshrinkage
laundering,
LOE-1.65%,
SR-
determine
as follows: for lacoste:
the results are
and
for
SOE-2.40%,
LR-2.35%, LB-1.35%;
plain jersey:
first
SR815,
of
FIGURE 2. SEM
FBB-
for two-thread fleece:
cycle.
washing
photo
F-1.08%,
2.87%, SB-1.06%;
FBOE-1.68%.
2.52%,
to abra-
which is
loss
In
to evaluate the resistance of
order
samples
20,000 rubs,
the
Discussion
Results and
the fabrics were
to
sion,
subjected
of commercial interest.
Furthermore,
weight
from the
The
results obtained
measurements,
together
of
relaxed
wasalso calculated
fully
dyedsamples
had been
percent
the
II
in
are
with the
to IV.
Tables
given
regression equations,
test
relevant
in order
after
cycle
the
completed,
ofwear in the
end ofthe test
holes at the
to be able to
fabrics,
period.
compare
severity
no
even if there were
PROPERTIES
DIMENSIONAL
were also
In
to the
addition
tests,
physical
samples
the
in-
stitch
as
fabric
type
of
micro-
electron
For each
relaxation
examined under
a
Jeol model
length,
the course
given
progresses,
scanning
of 100 to 750 x .
to evaluate the kind
on test
a
(SEM)
density
range
process
there is
whereas
scope
The
using
magnification
the wale
little
in
SEM
was
creases,
very
change
study
designed mainly
and
unlike
since
what we
and
of
This is not
fiber damage
were taken
pill entanglement
density.
quite
extent
expected,
a
the
from
whichwere
our earlier work
fabrics.
[8],
cycles.
fabrics,
laundering cycle
involving
here
are
single
subjected
Samples
to three
in accordance with the
mounted on 1-cm
the
standard,
laundering
samples
pilled
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167
the
mechanical
However,
the
agitation
during
processes
still
not
be
sufficient to
fabrics.
remove the
residual
distor-
may
tions
in the
distortions
from
Loop
resulting
yam
also
influence the
widthwise
relaxation
direction.
behavior
of
Furthermore.
the stitch
spirality may
the
in the
samples
with
an
increased
number
of
laundering cycles.
increases for each
and
fabric
and at
the
end of
density
the
type,
first
stitch
treatment,
washing
tumbling
Note also
density
reaches its
maximum.
that
to
contrary
previous
works
that open-end
tendency
samples
knitted fabrics
have
suggesting
spun
than
a
ones
8.
higher
shrinkage
[6.
ring
spun
LR
20.
and SR
lacoste and
26],
(ring spun
plain
density
have
stitch and
areal
jersey)
values
consistently
greater
than
LOE
and SOE knits
lacoste and
behind
(open-end
III).
spun
see Tables
II and
The
plain
this
jersey,
be
argument
of
FIGI’RE 3.
SEM
of
third
SM815,
photo
washing cycle.
washing cycle.
washing cycle.
the
use of
different
and
and
may
percentages
from
Agean
the
Greek
cotton fibers
in the blends
were
which
ring
open-end
The
spun yarns
produced.
(stitch
of
the
shrinkage potential
density)
FBOE)
fully
than
relaxed
blend
knits
is
FBB.
LB.
(SB.
spun
higher
that of
the
relaxed
and
corresponding
fabrics
fully
open-end
ring
LOE/LR. and
the blend
(SOE/SR,
Tables
F) (see
spun
II-IV ).
dyed
This
be
because
con-
knits,
may
spun
are
not
to
fibers,
the
taining dyed
polyester
dyeing
subjected
and
which
treatments.
can
stabilize the
bleaching
fabrics
by
heat
their
man-made
The
skew-
setting
parts.
ness
values
achieved
these
fabrics
also
by
may
imply
excessive
from
distortions,
a
loop
yam
probably arising
high
of
twist
liveliness
Tables
(see
One
degree
II-IV).
final
the
note about the
blend
to
fabrics: the fiber
of
spun
type
behav-
influence the
fabrics,
relaxation
inlay yarn
appears
ior
of
two-thread fleece
both
since for
a
stitch
given
the
stitch and
areal
values of
FBOE
cot-
length,
knits
density
~T/cotton,
50/50
than
(face
100%
yarn
inlay yam
FIGURE 4.
SEM
of
FMM800, first
photo
are
those of FBB ones
ton)
face
and
(both
greater
50/50
it
also tends
PET/cotton). Furthermore,
inlay
yarn
to affect the
course
wale
of
the base fabric
rather than its
spacing
Table
(see
the
IV).
measurements
spacing
The results of
of
and
cpcm,
wpcm,
relate
to
the
functions
IOOPS/CM2
graphically
appropriate
and
of the
of
the
knitted
we have
reciprocal
loop length,
found
that
there are linear relations
between
these
pa-
rameters
From
and
the
loop
type
length.
regression analysis
different
for
each
fabric
conducted
by taking
yarn
into
account and the correlation
coefficients
calcu-
types
lated,
it is
evident that
the stable
dimensional
on
properties
length.
of each
structure
much
stitch
depend very
so far as
the k
values
and
Moreover,
of
(k,.,
k&dquo;,
k,)
lacoste and
blend
spun
structures
are
the
concerned,
plain jersey
knits tend to
have
and
lower k values than the
In
the
corresponding
open-end
ring spun
samples.
case of the two-thread
fleece
the FBB
structure,
and FBOE
FIGURE 5. SEM
of
LOE700,
third
knits achieve
higher k
values when
to
F
the
photo
compared
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168
two-thread
and
of the
The SEM
cotton
100%
yarn
jersey
and
plain
face
photos
showthat
open-end
between
(both
inlay
tested the
samples
spun).
the
numberof
the
as both
the test revolutions
fabrics
fleece
differences
laundering
loose fiber
we
Accordingly,
and
increase,
fabric surfaces
found
treatments
assemblies
and
of the
values
statistically
ofthese
yarns
shrinkage
into much
turn
the
on
we
the
In
forming
were
findings,
in k values
light
insignificant.
they
can
which have various
harder
for each
differences
the
that
entanglements,
Moreover,
conclude
pill
tighter,
that
the
indicate
also
forms
(see
the
on
1 ).
these
Note
from
they
fabric
Figure
depend
yarns
also that
produced
type
revolutions
oftest
number
the same
for
11,000),
for all of the
(e.g.,
the fuzz
behavior.
relaxation
fabrics’
fabrics
in fibers within
with an
of
the
to
kr values
which
LOE640,
entanglements
the
damage
studied,
tight-
degree
belong
may
highest
of launder-
number
to increase
the
tends
to
be due
as
increasing
such
fabrics
est
from
varies
The
structure.
(see
in the
flaking
Figures
4)
Note,
of re-
as that
be be-
restraints
slight
frictional
damage
ings.
compact
higher
and fractures
cracks
small
to
2
and
(see
involved.
also
Figure
tumble
and
3)
significantly
drying
washing
Repeated
fabric and
on the
2.33
third
out in
to
a
value of
kr has
for
types
yarn
occurring
affect
LOE640,
depending
however,
(e.g.,
loop shape
a
result
as
that
2.38 for the
to
which
the first
damage
for
any
and
changes
cycle,
severe
tests is not as
and
it alters
because
washing
pilling
peated
bending
distorting
by
The
cycle),
This
in the literature
fabrics
16].
not
[9-12,
may
third dimension.
the
reported
appear
jersey
plain
such fiber
does
box
Ic1
the
cause
three
state after
relaxed
generate
their
attain
pilling
laundering cy-
fully
of
the
the kr values
1.30-1.33)
since
fatigue.
(within
cles,
are
range
researchers
those
to
close
by previous
reported
quite
’
the
with
relations
linear
obtained
have also
We
8].
PROPERTIES
[3,
ABRASION
and
T
2
between
coefficients
correlation
weight/M2
high
(tex)/L
to abra-
there
resistance
LB
least
show the
fabrics
The lacoste
and
K
and
t
and
factor) (r2
(thickness)/L
and r2
(tightness
relaxed
relaxed
for the
sion,
are
samples,
fully
fully
0.93-1.00
except
several holes
0.90-1.00
respectively).
LOE
LR and
in the
dyed
The SEM
are done.
test
the
knits when
rubs)
(20,000
suggest
cycle
have
a
that tuck stitches
fabrics
of these
PROPERTIES
photos
PILLING
fab-
of lacoste
behavior
occurat the
5).
Figure
abrasion
effect on the
negative
where
the holes
rics
because
points
from
generally
knitted
cotton
lower
100%
have
The
ring spun yarns
con-
samples
pilling
also show
dam-
are cast off
tuck stitches
(see
They
those
than
rates
tend to
(2/2-3)
are
these holes
fibers around
the
as
that
heavily
very
Unlike
100% cotton
the
structed from
spun yarns
open-end
lacoste
the
of abrasive forces.
result
the
a
are
the
because
be
aged
This
yarns
ring spun
(3-4/3).
may
fleece struc-
two-thread
are no
and
structure,
which
Table
(see
jersey
plain
the
than
hairier
I),
yarns
raised
open-end spun
of
holes in these
there
tures
well, i.e.,
to
fiber ends
quite
perform
allow
abrading
of
easy exposure
may
forces.
after
loss
the
fabric
fabrics. Foreach
weight
course
percent
length,
always
spun yams
compactstructure
type,
well
the
In
addition,
aligned,
promote
that as
and the
have
with
increases
abrasion
wear-off
fiber
increasing
not
the
easy
may
yarns
ring spun
from
fabrics knitted
the
knits from
also show
open-end
results
The
expected,
greater
[24].
blend
values
loss
(9.35-16.20%),
to
perhaps
tend to have
a
weight
highest-
tendency
(2/2-3)
than knits from
yarns
to the
fibers
sam-
due
break
fibers
because the
A
gradually
removal
cotton
100%
wrapping
yarns.
open-end
pill
of loose
the
abrasive
forces,
lacoste
that the
facilitating
of
results reveals
the
study
the
comparative
the
followed
are
the
structure.
from
by
to
They
(5.86-9.00%)
resistance
yarn
the
structure has
(4+/4-5).
formation,
pilling
highest
and blend
from
spun
we did not observe
ring spun
these
ples
In
pill
samples,
from one
The
to
( 1.52-4.97°Io),
respectively.
yams
varied
fuzz
sample
slightly
density
although
another
on the
expla-
possible
the
structure,
yarn type.
depending
lacoste
that of
for
be that
the
nation for this
may
Conclusions
formation.
wear-off is
than
of
rate
It
pill
higher
pill
and
the
on
for
Our work focuses
dimensional,
time
the
be because
also
pilling,
(even
tumbling
may
of
a
series of
lacoste,
of
abrasion
for
not
is
jersey,
plain
11,000 revolutions)
properties
completion
enough
long
and
from cotton
made
fabrics
two-thread fleece
the
and
Unlike
in these fabrics.
the
formation
ring
process
the
pill
well as from blend
as
(50/50
struc-
in
lowest
have the
fabrics
yams
show that both
lacoste
structure,
yarns
open-end spun
cotton/polyester,
tural differences
plain jersey
results
The
SB
and
SR
rates. The
dyed).
(ring spun plain jersey)
pilling
(blend
least
and fiber
the
large part
play a
type
display
especially,
samples,
(2/2-3).
(3+/3-4)
spun plainjersey)
is
It
of these fabrics.
dimensions
the
two-thread
For the
to
appar-
resistance
determining
pilling
a
lowerdimensional
and
have
from blend
yarns
ent that knits
tend to be more
F
fleece
structure,
pill
samples
from 100% cotton
to fabrics
than FBB and FBOE
resistant
ring
(2-3/3).
stability compared
samples
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169
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